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Hotels and AccommodationsBelow are our favorite accommodations, updated by our correspondant in Oaxaca. The Oaxaca Handbook includes additional suggestions and reviews by Bruce Whipperman.
Oaxaca CityNote: If you go there during the Guelaguetza festival, make sure you have a confirmed reservation. Bed & BreakfastA long time favorite of US travelers, the Casa Colonial is a charming B&B on the west edge of town. The accommodations (and prices) are modest but very intimate, with its large garden courtyard, well-stocked library and relaxed clientele. The warm atmosphere at this bed-and-breakfast owes much to American owners Jane and Thornton Robison, who seems to know everyone in town and happily dispense information on all things Oaxacan. Corner of Calle Miguel Negrete and Division Oriente. Reservation strongly recommended: ++52 (951) 516-5280, from the US +1 800 758 1697 or karensue@cdsnet.net. US$50 to $80.
Smaller but as charming is Casa de Maria B&B. Built in a modern, private home, the location is superb, with the rooms opening to a grassy, sunny courtyard. Plus, you get to have breakfast every morning with the hostess, Luz Maria Gonzalez, one of Oaxaca's most lively and fascinating citizen. Reservation recommended: $35 - $50. Belisario Domínguez 205, Oaxaca City. Map. ++52 (951) 515-1202. maria@oaxacalive.com.
Another popular B&B, but with a very different style, is the Casa Oaxaca, built in a restored 200-year-old downtown house, combining colonial scale and traditional materials (adobe, cantera stone, etc.) with a singularly unique interior. Past a spacious, plant-decorated courtyard, the visitor ends up by a beautiful indigo-blue-tile pool and a shaman-sanctioned temazcal. Rooms are uniquely decorated with local artcraft, and even serve as a rotating showcase for Oaxaca's modern artists. $120 up. Calle García Vigil 407, Oaxaca City. Phone: ++52 (951) 514 4173, Fax: (951) 64412. casaoax@prodigy.net.mx. web. reservations. Budget HotelsThe Hotel Principal is an authentic hacienda style building, featuring 23 rooms surrounding a white-washed, open courtyard decorated with wrought iron railings and clay pots planted with geraniums and bougainvillea. It is located 4 blocks north of the Zocalo, in the cleaner shopping district of the city. $20 to $30. Cinco de Mayo 208, Oaxaca City. Phone: ++52 (951) 625 35
Slightly further away from the Zocalo is the very popular Los Golondrinas, with its lovely patio and a garden-like setting with a cute fountain surrounded by towering yellow and red canna lilies, bleeding hearts, yellow trumpet-shaped Mandevilla and chrysanthemums. Close to the Santo Domingo temple. The rooms are immaculate and decorated with greek-style luxure. The on-site cafe is quite popular, especially in the morning, and serves authentic Oaxacan breakfeasts. $25 - $35. Some higher-priced king-size bed suite are also available for around $50. Tinoco y Palacios 411. Reservation recommended: ++52 (951) 514 3298. lasgolon@pridigy.net.mx. High-End and Luxury HotelsIf you are in for the big experience, or just like fancy hotels, consider the Camino Real. Built in the former 16th-century convent Oaxaca's Camino Real is one of those rare hotels that you wish you could live in forever. Now declared an historical monument, the hotel's Spanish Baroque architecture and authentic colonial mementos take guest back in time, and its lushly landscaped courtyards make it a lovely dining spot. Once a week, the hotel organizes a folkloric dinner show with pageantry reminiscent of the city's annual Guelaguetza festival. The service is gracious, and the high-ceilinged guest rooms, with their handcrafted furnishings and tile work, assuage the weary spirit with a cloistered calm. The 91 rooms and suites arranged around courtyards filled with bougainvillea and hibiscus and tidily clipped trees, are a haven of peacefulness, and generally large, some have balconies, with high, beamed ceilings, stucco walls, king or double beds, and large, tiled combination baths. There is also a verey popular bar, beyond arched courtyard entrance, hosted in the dim interior of a sixteenth-century library lined with shelves of antique manuscripts and vellum books. Rates start at US$200. Reservations: 516-0611 or 1-877-7CAMINO. Reservation. More suited for business travelers than tourists is the high-end 70.000 sq. meters Hotel Victoria, on a north-side hill overlooking the city. Bougainvilla-entwined bungalow with king-sized beds cost $120 and up; less expensive rooms in the hotel must be booked months in advance. Has a restaurant with a spectacular setting. Dinner is $20 per person. Facilities: Tennis courts, ppol. Lomas del Fortín N° 1 Tel: ++52 (951) 515 2633, or 01 800 714 3720 inside Mexico, Fax (951) 51 52411. Reservation.
There is also a trailer park on the far northeast side of town. 900 Av. Violetas. ++52 (951) 527-96. $7 to $12. Call before as the park is often closed. You can also park your RV at the French Hotel in San Felipe del Agua. ++52 (951) 520-0947. They have a 25' restriction.
Puerto EscondidoPuerto Escondido offers visitors a wide range of accommodation to suit all budgets, from basic cabañas to decent hotels, but does not boast the same sort of luxury hotels as Huatulco.
Right by the Zicatela beach is the classy newish Hotel Santa Fe, with a refreshing mix of international tourists and Mexican vacationers. The restaurant is outstanding. A fanciful confection of peaked rooflines, towers, arches, meandering tiled steps and azulejos (tiled wall plaques), the hotel has a neoclassical look above a rocky outcropping. $60 to $80. Reservations: ++52 (958) 20170, fax: (958) 20260. Toll Free in Mexico: 01-800-27057. From the US: 1 888 649-6407. info@hotelsantafe.com.mx. web.
An old time favorite is the Hotel Paraiso Escondido, slightly more pricey but ideally located on Perez Gasga Blvd and overlooking the main beach in town. Built around an inviting tropic-style pool, each of the hotel 20 rooms were custom-designed with a curious collection of Mexican folk art, masks, religious art, and paintings. Operated by a friendly staff, the place is quiet and feels intimate. The penthouse suite has a whirlpool tub and kitchenette, a tile chessboard inlaid in the floor, and murals adorning the walls--it is the owners' former apartment. $60 low season, $80 high-season for a double. Suites are twice that. Facilities: Restaurant, bar, pool. Calle Union 10. Tel (954) 582-0444
If you are on a budget, try the Mayflower Hotel and Youth Hostel, near the west end of the adoquin, half a block from the beach. $20 up. Telephone: (954) 582-0367 Fax: (954) 582-0422 minnemay7@hotmail.com
For Surfers, a good choice may be Bungalows & Cabañas Acuario motel, right in front of Zicatela Beach. bungalows offer fundamental kitchen facilities but don't have air-conditioning. The cabañas are more open and have hammocks. $60 high season, $30 low season. Bungalows are around $30 more. Extra fee for A/C.
Another good mid-range hotel is the Hotel Casa Blanca. Amneties are comparable to higher-priced hotels, but the hotel is not being right on the beach. A large courtyard pool with an adjacent gazebo restaurant make a great place to rest from the draining beach life. Facilities: Restaurant, pool, in-room massage, money exchange, car rental, room service, safe-deposit boxes, fans and TV in all rooms, no parking. $30 double low season. Extra for A/C and balcony rooms. Av. Pérez Gasga 905. Tel (954) 582-0168. Facilities: Restaurant; on-site gym (extra fee), surf shop, vegetarian restaurant, and Internet cafe.
There is also a Trailer Parks at Campamento Ecologico Ayuda Las Tortugas Playa Barra de Colotopec. $10/RV. Tel: ++52 (954) 582-0077. Bahia Carrizalalillos, Puerto Escondido Ecotourism UnitsAn interesting option for a more unusual vacation in Oaxaca is to rent one of the State Tourism Dept.'s new "Ecotourism Units." The State operates nine such units, called "Tourist Yu'u", that look like bungalows and are scattered throughout the state, though most of them in the valley of Oaxaca.
Reservations: Tel. (951) 64828. Fax. (951) 60123.
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