Is the state of Oaxaca so great that Mexicans want to keep it off the tourism beaten-track ?

I asked myself this question countless times, while journeyed throughout the state, camera in hand, in March 2002.

Part of the front cover of the DVD Alexandra's Travelogues - Oaxaca

From the moment we crossed Oaxaca's northern border, we got blessed with gorgeous landscapes, alternating arrid canyons and equatorial forests, dotted by century old villages overflowing of cultural wealth -- from its centuries-old craft traditions, vibrant fiestas and some of the most sabroso food south of the border.

It took one full week just to visit Oaxaca's state capital - simply called Oaxaca City -, and often nicknamed "city of the green temples" in reference to its somptuous colonial churches, all sporting greenish baroque facades. The Santo domingo temple in particular has an altar made of pure gold, and you can easily spend a full day visiting the 16 capillas of the cathedral.

But in Oaxaca, the most enjoyable activity is simply strolling the streets, lazing in its tree-shaded central square where Cafes spill out beneath broad arcades, where the town gathers for refreshment and gossip, serenaded by mariachi ballads, marimba-driven cumbias or a brass band that gives nightly concerts.

The minute we left the city, though, was like turning back to clock a thousand years. Only 5 miles west is the former capital of the Zapotec, Monte alban, built on on a flattened mountaintop. A short drive west is the former religious center of the mixtecs in mitla, with its mazed-like temples. These breathtaking archeological sites offer an educational and awe-inspiring look back into the ancient past of Mexico.

The marketplaces in Oaxaca often feel like Ali Baba's cave

Traveling more south, we crossed several villages that specialize in one particular artcraft. Teotitlan, for example, is world-famous for its rugs, and artisans proudly display their carpets on the facade of their colorful houses along the main road.

More generally, Oaxaca is a shopper's paradise, and not only because of its wealth of handicrafts. Even in the smallest village of the countryside, marketplaces are so animated and colorful they seem almost surreal: Indian women wrapped in brilliant shawls kneel behind piles of green chayote and wizened red chiles; pink and purple clouds of cotton candy drift by, tethered to a street peddler; and everywhere its air is strongly scented with spices, dyes and exotic merchandise from all over the state.

The video was so exciting that I booked a trip to Oaxaca the following day... I followed the same road as Alexandra... It was unforgettable!

Debbie Gerstel, CA

Our trip ended at the pacific coast of Mexico. In sharp contrast to the american feel of Cancun's phalanx of high-rise hotels, the mostly-virgin bays of Huatulco definitely feel like mexico. Puerto Escondido, our final destination, is the largest resort of the state of Oaxaca, and a well-known paradize for surfers of Pto Escondido. But for the many Mexican families who flock from all over the state to sunbathe there, is considered one of the most paradisiac-looking beach of the new world.

This web site regroups all the notes and many of the pictures I have taken during the trip. I have added a few excerpts from the video. You can purchase the DVD on-line, or at specialized retailers throughout the USA and in Mexico.

Alexandra Nunez.